| The Delta 1010 |
I love my Delta 1010. It has given me several years of reliable service. One morning I noticed the the VU meter on my Alesis 12R was staying partially lit. Turns out that all of the outputs on the Delta 1010 had noise in them and the audio that did come out was distorted. I thought it was the end of my 1010, but after a little looking I found that there had been problems with the capacitors on some models. I cracked the case on mine and much to my relief, I spied that one of the caps in the power supply line had swelled and was leaking some electrolyte. How can that be relief? It meant my problem was probably right there and quite easy to fix. I ordered up some new caps from Digikey. I actually ordered equivalent voltage and capacitance replacements for all of the large electrolytics, but it turns out that the new caps are larger and wouldn't fit in some spots, but I replaced the caps that had leaked and four others where the new caps would fit. I haven't had any trouble out of it since. At any rate, now that I've got a camera and am writing up the projects I've tackled, I figured I'd put up some instructions to help folks in a similar situation out. I don't have full pictures since I just had the unit apart recently for cleaning and I didn't want to completely disassemble it. Cracking the case on your Delta 1010 will void the warranty. Chances are it has already run out, though. This repair is done at your own risk - I can not take any responsibility for any damages incurred. I'm just trying to guide folks through the process. If you can't solder small stuff or don't know a capacitor from a hole in the ground, don't do this repair. Case Screws
 There are 3 case screws on the cover of the case in the rear, 1 in the front, and 2 on each side. Some are #1 Philips, some are #2. Use the right screwdriver. You should be able to pop the top right off. If you can't, you may have missed a screw. The Vent Backer Plate
 There are 4 screws in the plate, all #2 if I remember correctly. It should come right out. Daughter Board
 The input board has to come out to get the main board out. It is held in by 3 #2 screws and 2 standoffs. After taking the screws and standoffs out, you should be able to gently pull up on the lower edge of the board (as shown in the picture) where it connects to the main board. Although they're pretty robust, be careful not to bend the pins. Main Board
 The Holy Grail - the output board is loaded with fasteners. There are 7 standoffs and 3 screws. One screw and one standoff are through the tabs of voltage regulators on the left side. You should be able to see a nut on a stud on one of the tabs - you don't need to take it off - it just holds the tab to the board. There is also a nut on each of the BNC connectors and a pair of tiny standoff-type things on the DB-25 connector that need to come off. If you didn't do it earlier, go ahead and take the face off of the unit and slide the main board out toward the front. The Rest
 You're on your own from here. It is just a matter of desoldering the old caps and soldering in the new ones. Make sure you get the polarity right! The caps with the fingers are the ones I ended up replacing. The values are clearly printed on the old caps, just match up the new ones. This would also be a great time to replace the borish yellow LEDs with some clear blue, white, green, red, or violet ones. I personally used deep-violet near-UV LEDs for the power and MIDI-OUT and a bright red for MIDI-IN. Reassembly is the reverse of the disassembly. I shouldn't have to tell you that. If you need any help or have any questions or additions, let me know! Good luck. |